Thursday, December 31, 2009

Holiday Treats 2009: Homemade Marshmallows, Part 2


CCO is from Boston and apparently in New England they love molasses. He really loves it when I make anadama bread and one time he actually put molasses in his coffee. So when I saw that Eileen Talanian had a recipe for molasses marshmallows, I figured I had to make some.

I'm very glad I did. The molasses marshmallows have a great spicyness to them and taste almost like gingerbread. You coat them in a mix of powdered sugar with ginger, nutmeg and cloves.

From Marshmallows by Eileen Talanian

Eat Rating: Awesome. I'm having a hard time picking whether the plain marshmallow or this version is my favorite.
Difficulty: Medium to Hard.

3 tbsp (or 4 packets) unflavored gelatin
3/4 cup cold water
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup molasses
2/3 cup marshmallow syrup (See this post for how to make marshmallow syrup)
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

Coating:
1 cup powdered sugar
1/3 cup corn starch
1 1/2 tsp ginger
1 tsp cinnamon
3/4 tsp ground cloves

Grease a 9x13 glass pan with oil and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix the 3/4 cup of cold water with the gelatin until all the granules are wet. Set aside.

Place the remaining ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid for 2 minutes. After the 2 minutes are over, remove the lid and do not stir the mixture. Insert a thermometer and continue boiling until it reaches 248 degrees. Once it has reached temperature, remove from heat and add the gelatin. The mixture may foam up momentarily. That's ok. Gently stir until all the gelatin is incorporated.

If using a hand mixer, do the next steps right in the pan. If you are using a stand mixer, attach the whisk-head to the mixer. Carefully take the pot over to the mixer and pour the liquid into it. Not a big deal if some clings to the side of your pan. No need to scrape. Be very careful not to get any liquid on yourself because it's super hot. Turn on the mixer to high and beat for 10 to 12 minutes. At first, the liquid will be a dark brown translucent color. As the mixing continues, it will gradually lighten in color and start to get fluffy. It should double or triple in size. Once the mixture is light tan shade and the blades from the mixer leave clear streaks that do not immediately reincorporate themselves, it is done.

Pour the marshmallow batter into your prepared pan. It will need to sit for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

While the marshmallows are cooling, mix together the powdered sugar and cornstarch for the coating. Add the spices and mix until well combined. Set aside until the marshmallows are dry.

Once your marshmallows are ready, set up a workspace. Sprinkle some of the spiced powdered sugar on a cutting board and flip the marshmallow pan onto it. You may need to use your fingers or a knife to separate the marshmallows from the side of the pan. They shouldn't stick to it. Once they are out of the pan, use a pizza cutter or large knife to cut the marshmallows into pieces. Alternatively, you can use cookie cutters (oil them first). Once the marshmallows are cut, roll each piece in the spiced powdered sugar.

Immediately dunk several marshmallows into a hot cup of cocoa.

The marshmallows will keep for up to 2 weeks in a sealed plastic container at room temperature.

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Holiday Treats 2009: Homemade Marshmallows, Part 1


In the winter, CCO loves to make cocoa almost as much as I love to drink it. My only qualm is that I am often so eager to drink it that I burn my mouth (I know. I'm such a child). But if you serve the cocoa at a cooler temperature, it's not warm enough to melt the marshmallow. They just bob around in the liquid until you give up and chomp them.

The best way to solve this problem? Homemade marshmallows. They melt much better than store-bought ones, giving you that delicious layer of foamy goodness on the cocoa that immediately gets all over your face. (I told you I was a child)

A couple notes: first, you really need a thermometer for this. You have to boil the liquid to a particular temperature in order for it to work. But you don't have to go buy a fancy candy thermometer. I actually just use a meat thermometer. You also really need a mixer. A hand mixer will work (though your arm will get tired). A stand mixer is preferable.

Second, this recipe uses gelatin so it's not vegetarian or kosher. (You'll want one box of Knox Gelatin per recipe. You can usually find it with the Jello at the supermarket). I read online that you can make vegan marshmallows using agar in place of gelatin. I meant to try it, but the only place I could find agar was at the organic market where it costs $14 for a tiny pack. So I decided to leave that for another day.

The recipes I used came out of a book: Marshmallows by Eileen Talanian. (Yes I did actually buy an entire cookbook devoted to marshmallows). The way she structures the book is not conducive to making just one batch -- basically she has you make 1 quart of marshmallow syrup to start and then each recipe uses about 1 to 1 1/2 cups of the syrup. I still have a glass jar of marshmallow syrup on my counter even after making about 250 marshmallows, so I'm cutting down her initial syrup recipe here.

Part 1 is a recipe for traditional vanilla marshmallows. It makes about 50-60 medium-sized marshmallows.

Adapted from "Marshmallows: Homemade Gourmet Treats" by Eileen Talanian

Eat Rating: Awesome.
Difficulty: Medium to hard. Requires thermometer, mixer.

Syrup:
1 cup water
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 tsp cream of tartar

Marshmallow:
1/2 cup + 2 tbsp cold water
1 tbsp vanilla extract (LN: The recipe calls for 1 1/2 tbsp. I ran out of vanilla, so I just used 1 and they taste plenty vanilla to me. Use your judgment)
3 tbsp unflavored gelatin (LN: She wants you to empty the packets and measure it out. I will not blame you if you find this a silly step. 3 tbsp = 4 packets or 1 box)
3/4 cup water
1 1/4 cup marshmallow syrup
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

Coating:
1 cup powdered sugar
1/3 cup corn starch
1 vanilla bean

In a large, heavy bottomed pot, place the 1 cup water with the sugar for the syrup and the cream of tartar. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring as the sugar melts. Once the mixture is boiling, remove the spoon and place a lid on the pot. Allow to boil with the lid on for 2 minutes. This will remove any sugar crystals that may have stuck to the sides of the pot. (LN: Some other recipes you may see suggest using a pastry brush dipped in water to wipe the crystals off the pot. I prefer the boil-with-a-lid method because it's much easier)

After the two minutes, remove the lid. After this point, do not stir the liquid. If you do, crystals may form in the syrup. Place your thermometer in the syrup and continue to boil until it reaches 240 degrees. Once it reaches the temperature, remove from heat and take out your thermometer. (I also suggest you wash your thermometer right away lest the syrup get stuck on there). Let the syrup sit for 15 minutes to cool slightly, then pour into a clean quart-sized jar. Do not scrape the sides of the pot to get more syrup. Just pour.

The syrup can sit out at room temperature for up to 2 months, so this step can be done ahead. To keep it for another recipe, once it has cooled, cover loosely with saran wrap and a rubber band. In the meantime, set it aside.

In a small bowl, combine the 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp water with the vanilla extract. Add the gelatin and stir with a fork until all the granules are wet. Set aside.

Spray a 9x13 glass baking dish with oil (or if you don't have spray, put a little oil on a paper towel and wipe the inside of the dish. Set aside.

In a large, heavy bottomed pan, add 3/4 cup water. Return to your marshmallow syrup. If you just made it, the syrup should still be viscous enough to pour. Measure out 1 1/4 cups of the syrup and add to the pan. (If you made the syrup ahead of time it will be a solid mass. In a separate saucepan, boil about 1 cup of water and then place the jar into the water for 1-2 minutes. This should heat the syrup enough so you can pour it). Add the 1 1/2 cups of sugar and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring to melt the sugar. Once it boils, remove the spoon and place the lid. Continue boiling for 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, remove the lid and do not stir. Place your thermometer in the mixture and continue to boil until it reaches 250 degrees. Once it's at temperature, remove the thermometer and turn off the heat.

Go get your gelatin. At this point, the gelatin will probably be a solid mass and smell pretty awful. Break it up into medium-sized chunks with your fork and then add to the sugar mixture. The sugar mixture will likely bubble up as you add the gelatin. Don't worry, it's just melting. Just your spoon to stir in the gelatin until no large lumps are remaining.

If using a hand mixer, do the next steps right in the pan. If you are using a stand mixer, attach the whisk-head to the mixer. Carefully take the pot over to the mixer and pour the liquid into it. Again, not a big deal if some clings to the side of your pan. No need to scrape. Be very careful not to get any liquid on yourself because it's super hot. Turn on the mixer to high and beat for 10 to 12 minutes. At first, the liquid will be translucent. As the mixing continues, it will turn bright white and start to get fluffy. It should double or triple in size. Once the mixture is bright white and the blades from the mixer leave clear streaks that do not immediately reincorporate themselves, it is done.


Pour the marshmallow batter into your prepared pan. It will need to sit for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

While the marshmallows are resting, combine the powdered sugar and cornstarch in a sealable plastic container. Using a knife, cut the vanilla bean in half and scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds and the vanilla bean to the plastic container and close it. Shake a few times, then let sit until your marshmallows are dry.

Once your marshmallows are ready, set up a workspace. Sprinkle some of the vanilla powdered sugar on a cutting board and flip the marshmallow pan onto it. You may need to use your fingers or a knife to separate the marshmallows from the side of the pan. They shouldn't stick to it. Once they are out of the pan, use a pizza cutter or large knife to cut the marshmallows into pieces. Alternatively, you can use cookie cutters (oil them first). Once the marshmallows are cut, roll each piece in the vanilla powdered sugar.

Immediately dunk several marshmallows into a hot cup of cocoa.

The marshmallows will keep for up to 2 weeks in a sealed plastic container at room temperature.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Lemon Dutch Baby


Last weekend, I ate my first Dutch baby. Jonathan Swift would be proud.

For those who've never heard of them, a dutch baby is half-pancake, half-souffle. You bake it in a warmed cast-iron skillet in the oven, then cover it in lemon and sugar.

Eat Rating: Awesome
Difficulty: Easy.

Adapted from Orangette

2 tbsp butter
4 eggs
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cream + 1/4 cup skim milk (LN: alternatively, you can use the 1/2 cup half-and-half, like the recipe calls for)
Juice of one lemon
1/4 cup powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Heat a cast iron skillet on stovetop and melt the butter, making sure it coats the sides and bottom of the pan. Reduce heat to warm and leave on the burner as you prepare the batter.

In a bowl, beat eggs, flour and milk with a whisk. Once thoroughly combined, pour batter into the skillet and place into the oven. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until the sides have puffed up and browned and the middle is set.


Remove from the oven, admire its delicate sponge-y texture and top liberally with lemon juice and powdered sugar. Serve immediately.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Spaghetti Squash with Bacon and Turnip Greens


Spaghetti squash is a delicious and crunchy vegetable. Don't treat it like a low-carb alternative to pasta. That doesn't do it justice. When I was a kid, my mom always served spaghetti squash roasted with butter. That is a delicious way to eat it, but you can only do that so many weeks in a row before it becomes a little bland. So CCO and I tried this morrocan spiced spaghetti squash. Don't do it. For whatever reason, it was really bad. I mean immediately-into-the-trash-and-order-pizza bad. Undetered, I returned to the internet and found this recipe for spaghetti squash with bacon and turnip greens. I'm glad I did. Bacon makes everything better.


Adapted from Cooking by the Seat of My Pants

Eat Rating: Awesome. Just enough bacon for flavor, with a nice crunch from the squash.
Difficulty: Easy.

1 medium spaghetti squash
1 large bunch of turnip greens, ribs removed and chopped (or 1 package frozen chopped turnip greens)
1 small onion, chopped
4 slices of bacon, cooked until crispy and chopped
3 cloves of garlic, finely minced
2 tbsp olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment. Prick the spaghetti squash all over with a fork, place on the cookie sheet and then bake for 1 hour or until tender. Allow to cool.

Once cool, cut the spaghetti squash in half and remove seeds. Using a fork, pull out the strings of cooked squash and place in a bowl. Set aside.

In a medium-sized sautee pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and saute about three minutes, until slightly browned. Add the garlic and cook 1 additional minute. Add the greens and cook for about 8 minutes or until greens have wilted and cooked completely through. Add squash to greens and cook for 2-3 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in bacon. Serve immediately.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Wedding Cake Project: Chocolate Guinness Cake

My friend's camera phone takes surprisingly good photos.

I first made this cake last year for an office birthday. Like most office birthdays, we gathered in the conference room, made chit-chat about how old the person was and what she was going to do for her birthday. Then I told everyone there was a secret ingredient in the cake and passed out slips of paper for everyone to guess. The guesses were funny (someone actually guessed "pot") but no one could guess it was Guinness. It's one of those things that you don't actually taste until someone tells you it's there.

My co-worker Anne loved the cake and asked me every time there was a birthday whether I was making it. So for her birthday, of course, I had to make it.

If you click the link to the NYT recipe, you'll note it has some strange measurements (3/8 cup). I tweaked them a little so they work better with American measuring cups. I recommend trying to find European style cocoa, like Droste (King Arthur sells it also). Sometimes you can find Hershey's European Style Cocoa, but some stores don't carry it.

When you make this recipe, you heat the Guinness up in a saucepan to burn a little of the alcohol off, then mix in the chocolate. As it cooks, the Guinness mellows and ends up adding a nice complexity to the chocolate flavor.

The cake itself is very rich and a little fudge-y in the middle. Don't overcook it or it will come out dry. The recipe makes a little too much batter for a regular 9 inch round. You can either make a 9-inch round and then a smaller cake on the side, use a springform pan (since it has taller sides) or use a 10-inch round. The one pictured is a 10-inch round -- what will be the middle layer of the wedding cake.

The recipe also calls for a cream cheese frosting. You're supposed to swirl it on top to make it look like the head of a pint of Guinness. I'm not very good at swirling, though. If you want the cream cheese frosting, don't try to substitute something else for the cream. That gives you frosting that's way too thin. According to Gourmet and the guys at The Bitten Word, it's also lovely with a peanut butter frosting.


The last piece.

Adapted from Nigella Lawson

Cake:
1 cup Guinness Stout (LN: use the can! it's so much better than the bottle.)
10 tbsp. butter (1 1/2 sticks)
1/3 cup cocoa powder
2 cups granulated sugar
1/3 cup sour cream
2 eggs
1 tbsp vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 1/2 tsp baking soda

Frosting:
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar
1 8 oz. cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour your cake pan (see above for info on what cake pan to use).

In a small saucepan, heat the Guinness and butter until the butter is melted. Remove from heat and add in the cocao and sugar, whisking until well combined. Set aside.

In the bowl of a Kitchenaid (or in a medium-sized bowl, using hand mixer), combine the sour cream, eggs and vanilla. Mix for 2 minutes or until well combined. Add in the Guinness mixture (if using your Kitchenaid, put on the splash guard so it doesn't get everywhere when you turn on the beaters). Gradually add the flour and baking soda, mixing between each addition until fully incorporated and you have a nice medium-thickness cake batter.

Pour into prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. I recommend baking 45 minutes, then checking every five minutes until a toothpick tester comes out clean. You don't want to overbake or the cake will be dry. Remove from oven and cool on wire rack in the pan.

Once the cake is cool, combine the cream cheese and powdered sugar in a bowl and beat until well combined. Gradually add in the cream, beating until desired consistency.

Remove cake from pan and frost, swirling the frosting on top so it looks like the head on a pint of Guinness. Serve with a tall glass of milk or refrigerate until needed, then remove about 30 minutes before serving.